Ponta Dobela is a beautiful, secluded bay approximately 25km up the coast from Ponta Mamoli, and is known only to a select few. There are no local people living in the area, and there are no resorts; it is located within the Mozambican National Park and it is truly wild, with reports of crocs venturing on the the beach from nearby Lake Piti. Most people will have heard of Ponta Mili Bangalala, which is literally 10kms further up the coast, and has a formal campsite, but also no diving operation. Ponta Dobela has no such formal campsite, but has only the 'remnants' of what used to be a wonderful dive camp, run by Tony Chapman, until it burned down approximately 8 years ago.
Bittenbysharks talked to Tony Chapman of Devocean in Ponta Do Ouro, about the diving he used to do at Ponta Dobela. He remembered larger than life Trevally's patrolling the reefs, abundant marine activity, sheer drop-offs, sharks.......sounded like nothing we usually experienced in Southern Mozambique! And so, Bittenbysharks and Tony put their heads together and invited a group of hardy off-road diving adventurers to come along and experience Ponta Dobela once again.
The group met at the Kosi Bay border post and after a quick safety briefing, proceeded in convoy. On the whole the 4X4's all did well on the difficult terrain, and the 2-wheel drive diff-lock (not recommended at the outset) was not a good option! A few times the Toyota Land-Cruiser (go figure!) had to tow vehicles out of the sand (Land-Rovers included! ouch, just couldn't resist!) but despite this, as is typically South African, the jokes and comments began to fly! A gentle bond started to grow, between these like-minded adventurers. By sunset, camp-sites were set-up (some with extreme gadgets, and every convenience imaginable!), and then everyone sat around the fire, enjoying sundowners, with only the sounds of the bush and ocean in the back-ground. Tony had brought some helpers, his boat, and compressor. He smoothly had us diving the next morning, just as if he were back at Devocean, and not in the middle of absolutely nowhere! Underwater we certainly understood what Tony had meant, when he had told us about the abundance of life, colourful gardens, dramatic cliffs, and downright enormous Trevallys! We saw large crocodile fishes, turtles, schools of barracuda, sharks,and a very large curious Bass who took to following us from dive site to dive site (despite the fact that they were sometimes many miles apart!) One site was a pretty, colourful coral garden, even better than those at Ponta Mamoli.
Avid birders in the group, were intrigued by sightings in the campsite, on the beach and near the lake, as well as in fact on the journey there and back.
The most magical part of Ponta Dobela was the fact that there were no other people, not a soul! And when the morning light lit up the bay, we had the entire place to ourselves... In turtle nesting season, turtles come up to the beach to lay their eggs and so driving is not permitted on the beach. This includes the dreaded quad bike!
The drive to and from Dobela through the park revealed hippos, fish-eagles, crocodiles and plenty of elephant 'evidence' - the dung was fresh, although the beasts were apparently in hiding this time!
Places like Ponta Dobela will eventually (hopefully not!) fall victim to the rampant expansion we find futher South in Mozambique: over-crowded resorts, filled with noisy inebriated tourists on quad bikes and jet-skis. Fortunately it is still quite a trek to get there, which means not many people will make the effort.
Only those with the true spirit of adventure in their hearts, will take that plunge. Take the opportunity to see a part of Southern Mozambique which is still unspoilt! If nature is your thing, this one is certainly for you!
TEXT (C)BITTENBYSHARKS , AUGUST TRIP 2007 SCROLL DOWN BELOW THE IMAGES FOR TESTIMONIALS
The convoy....
hippos and cros in Lake Piti
Land-Rover stuck on the first steep incline!! Land-Cruiser to the rescue!!
Tony does 'paperwork' with Park officials
while the rest of us 'eyeball' their lunch!
Bittenbysharks makes it over the last up-hill and onto Ponta Dobela's beach
2 wheel drive with diff-lock gets stuck in the soft sand...Land-Cruiser to the rescue once again!
Panoramic view of Ponta Dobela Bay. The river mouth on the right connects to Lake Piti.
Mmmm, wonder what brand of wetsuit kept everyone warm and toasty? Looks like a CRESSI commercial!
DEVOCEAN's trusty, crusty and rusty Land-Cruiser!
Leon shoots video of a Crocodile fish.
Claudia takes Derek through his paces for the PADI Digital UW Photographer Specialty
"Shipwrecked" in Mili Bangalala (don't ask!) Image by Derek van Vuuren
"Shipwreck-ees" Image by Derek van Vuuren
Martin relaxes with a SUBMERGE magazine, reading the Bittenbysharks Raja Ampat feature of course!
Bryan catches some rays...
Curio shop at Ponta Mamoli
Ponta Dobela - Testimonials
I just wanted to say thanks for an awesome trip. I really enjoyed every minute. I hope you all got back safely. I look forward to the next trip.
Tony (Botswana) Ponta Dobela, August 2007
Wow, a month has passed since that great trip! Just got the chance to download my photos, and thought I woud send them to you. Hope you are all well!
Bryan (Durban) Ponta Dobela, August 2007 Images RHS, by Bryan Hart
(C) Copyright Bittenbysharks. All rights reserved.
) but despite this, as is typically South African, the jokes and comments began to fly!
